New Belgium and 3Floyds Gratzer Ale
According to research done by Ron Pattinson, the Grätzer was once a style on the verge of extinction, perhaps even gone the way of the Dodo. Here’s what he was able to dig up on the style:
“Grätzer Bier, a rough, bitter beer, brewed from 100% wheat malt with an intense smoke and hop flavour. The green malt undergoes smoking during virtually the whole drying process, is highly dried and has a strong aroma in addition to the smoked flavour. An infusion mash is employed. Hopping rate: for 1 Zentner (100 kg) of malt, 3 kg hops. Gravity just 7º [Plato]. Fermentation is carried out in tuns at a temperature of 15 to 20º C.”
“Bierbrauerei” by M. Krandauer, 1914, page 301.
That certainly sounds like an interesting beer. It’s also a description that let’s us know that the joint offering from New Belgium and 3 Floyds also isn’t really true to style. Grätzer Ale, a collaborative effort between the two breweries, is brewed with a combination of smoked wheat and midnight wheat — what the exact ratio is, I don’t know. This 4.5% ABV brew also employs an amount of lacto to give the beer a touch of sourness.
As to why the breweries decided to reinterpret the style, that’s between them — I can only speculate. My guess, however, is that with the historic description of this style and its reliance on 100% smoked wheat and a strong hop character, it just didn’t play well with our modernized palates. Then again, maybe the two breweries just wanted to leave their own mark on the style.
Regardless, what we’ve got here is a nearly sessionable and unique experience of a beer. The wheat adds a softness to the flavor while a smooth smokiness persists, resulting in a beer that drinks surprisingly easily.
Appearance
Grätzer Ale pours an opaque and dark, dark brown in color with a large stack of dark tan foam that fell slowly to a full ring.
Aroma
Wheat, distant smoke, a light meatiness, pepper and a hint of sourness combine for an aroma that also has an overall earthy tone.
Taste
Well, it’s definitely got a smokiness and meatiness to it, but not to the degree of most rauchbier-like styles. I’m assuming the midnight wheat was employed to cut down on the smokey bite, as the brew doesn’t require too much effort on your part to get used to the overall flavor. It’s not too hoppy, but there is a good amount of bitterness that lingers for a while. The hop bite is also accompanied by a peppery sensation that only adds to the experience. A late forming hint of sourness is an interesting touch, but I’m not sure it’s really all that necessary. The lightly crisp and medium bodied brew also carries a light measure of sweetness.
Overall
Grätzer Ale is certainly one of the more interesting beers that I’ve had recently. It’s not over-the-top in any regard, but brings a fairly refined smokey character to the palate — a presentation that is perhaps a bit toned down from what the original style suggests. I am glad that I had the opportunity to try it out. It’s not going to appease you diehard rauchbier fans, but for those of you looking for a little something different, I’d recommend this lightly smokey treat.
Rating: 3.75/5
This is a review of a promotional sample.
