I’m a big fan of the sweet, malty depths of the doppelbock. Ayinger’s Celebrator will remain one of my favorite beers of all time. Which makes drinking the Wasatch Devastator (freaking love the name by the way) a bittersweet moment. I know that I’m probably not going to love it as much as my favorite, but I also know that I’m going to thoroughly enjoy it. What can I say, I’m weird like that.
And I do like Devastator a good deal, especially for the curveball that it threw at my palate upon the first sip. Sure, the beer carries a solid malt sweetness and it’s got hints of dark fruits, but it’s also got a small impression of bitter chocolate in there as well. I did not expect that in the least. Wasatch Devastator is a big beer (8% ABV), but it didn’t devastate my tastebuds in the least. It’s a lightly boozy brew that I would love the opportunity to drink again.
Devastator pours deep mahogany in color with a light tan head that dropped quickly to a sparse ring around the surface.
A good amount of bready malt, light toast, caramel and a touch of alcohol fill the nose while dark fruits come into play as the beer warms.
The beer tastes pretty darn good as a strong malt character arrives with caramel, a moderate sweetness, bred and hints of toffee. And this is where the bitter chocolate impression arrives. It’s not string by any means and it actually comes and goes within the brew’s flavor, but it’s an intriguing addition. Devastator is slightly viscous and chewy as it travels over the tongue to a semi-drying finish that brings a late forming warmth to the chest.
Wasatch Devastator is a pretty decent brew. It’s got a great malt profile and appropriate warmth for the style, plus the bitter chocolate character that gives it a unique edge. The warm day I drank it on may not have been the best time to enjoy it to its fullest, but I can certainly see myself sitting down with a bottle of this in the Fall.
This is a review of a promotional sample from the brewery.