Apr 11, 2014

Brewery Ommegang Wild At Heart

Brewery Ommegang has produced some pretty decent wile ales through the years. Their tasty Ommegeddon and the rare Zuur (more a sour, but still wild) both come to mind as great examples. The company’s latest foray into the realm of the wild is the 8% ABV Wild At Heart. This beer isn’t as funky as Ommegeddon nor does it pack any tartness like the Zuur, but what it lacks in those two areas, it more than makes up for in smooth drinking refinement.

In most beers of this style, the wild yeast at play (usually Brettanomyces) is tossed in later in the process. With Wild At Heart, Ommegang decided to use it in their primary fermentation. I would have though that the effect would have been a stronger “wild” presence, but what we have here is a fairly subdued brew that dances lightly on the palate and only gives you glimpses of its wildness.

Brewery Ommegang Wild At Heart photo

Appearance

The brew pours golden amber with a frothy crown of foam that dropped slowly.

Aroma

Soft funk, grassy hops, a distant tartness, grain and a light peppery tingle combine for an attractive smelling brew.

Taste

The first thing you notice is the mouthfeel of this beer. The active carbonation pushes a soft funk and grassy hops over the tongue rather vigorously. There’s a moderate tartness that settles nicely, but doesn’t assert itself too strongly. Light citrus and pine notes accompany a low hop bite. Fairly subdued overall.

Overall

I like Wild At Heart. It comes across with a fairly reined-in wild character, just hinting at the funkiness. It’s an easy drinking ale that presents itself with the subtlety of a saison more so that your prototypical wild ale. Regardless, it would serve nicely as a thirst quencher in the warm months to come.

Rating: 3.5/5

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